Da Bull: Life Over the Edge

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Description

Pioneer big-wave surfer, Greg Noll, was once known as Da Bull by his fellow surfers for his stubborn, straightforward and aggressive approach to the sport. His way of living in general wasn’t much different. His life revolved around surfing and the whole lot the sport engendered. He made surfboards and surf films. He pioneered modern surfing in Australia. He found out Mazatlan as a surf spot. He as the first to ride the fear-some waves at Waimea Bay and Outdoor Pipeline on Oahu’s North Shore. He brawled and caroused with men, charmed and entertained women.Above all, he was once Da Bull, some of the bravest and best of the big wave riders of his or any individual’s era.

Part of Greg Noll’s motivation for riding big surf came from the camaraderie he enjoyed with his elite and rowdy peers. The other part came from with: “I just wanted to ride a bigger wave than anybody. I wanted to do something not one of the other guys could or would do.” In the future in December 1969, he did just that when a storm from the Aleutians drove monstrous swells onto the shores of Oahu and created a day like no other at Makaha Point. There, Greg Noll met the wave that had beckoned but eluded him for twenty years.

Hawaii State Senator and former World Surfing Champion, Fred Hemmings, was once out in the water at Makaha that same day. Afterward, he described Greg Noll’s experience as “a death-wish wave. If it had been any individual else in that situation, he would have died.”

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